Concrete FAQ

Cornerstone Concrete Co. was founded in 2006 by Marcus Webb, a former commercial concrete foreman who wanted to bring commercial-grade standards to residential work. We've been serving Nashville and Middle Tennessee continuously since then — nearly two decades of local concrete work.

Our primary service area covers eight communities: Nashville, Brentwood, Franklin, Murfreesboro, Hendersonville, Gallatin, Spring Hill, and Mt. Juliet. We also take projects in surrounding communities throughout Middle Tennessee. If you're not sure whether your location is covered, call us at (615) 555-0300 with your address.

Yes — Cornerstone holds an active Tennessee contractor license and carries both general liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage. Certificates of insurance are available on request before any project begins. We've never worked without proper coverage and don't use unlicensed subcontractors.

Yes — we handle both residential and commercial concrete work. The majority of our projects are residential (driveways, patios, garage floors), but we also take commercial work including parking lot sections, loading dock areas, sidewalk aprons, and large flatwork installations. Commercial projects may have additional permitting requirements, which we handle as part of the project process.

We respond to online inquiries within 1 business day. Phone calls during business hours are answered or returned the same day. After the initial contact, we schedule a site visit within 3–5 business days and provide a written quote within 24 hours of the visit.

Yes — all residential installations include a written workmanship warranty. The warranty covers defects in how the work was performed — improper base preparation, structural failure, installation defects — but not normal wear, surface staining, or damage from events outside our control. The specific warranty terms are included in every project contract.

Active installation time varies: a standard driveway typically takes 1–2 days of work; a patio of 400–600 sq ft takes 2–3 days; a stamped concrete installation takes 3–5 days; a retaining wall may take 4–7 days. All projects then require a curing period of 7–10 days before the surface can take vehicle or heavy foot traffic. We include a complete timeline in the project agreement.

During the 7–10 day curing period, the concrete is hardening and gaining strength. Light foot traffic is usually possible after 24–48 hours. Vehicles should stay off for at least 7 days, and heavy vehicles (RVs, loaded trucks) should wait 28 days when possible. We cover the freshly poured surface and, in hot weather, apply curing compound to prevent premature moisture loss.

Base preparation is the work done before the concrete is poured — excavating the existing soil, compacting the subgrade, and installing a layer of compacted aggregate (gravel) that supports the slab. Skipping or rushing this step is the most common cause of concrete failure: slabs poured over weak or uncompacted base settle unevenly, causing cracking and trip hazards within a few years. We always specify base depth based on site conditions, not a fixed formula.

For residential driveways and patios we specify a minimum 4,000 PSI (28-day compressive strength) mix with appropriate water-cement ratio for our Middle Tennessee climate. For stamped concrete, we adjust the mix for workability during the stamping process while maintaining strength targets. Decorative surfaces receive UV-resistant sealer after curing. We use established ready-mix suppliers with documented batch plants — not on-site mixing.

We monitor weather closely and won't begin a pour if significant rain is forecast during the working window. Light rain after the concrete has set (typically 4–6 hours) is manageable. Heavy rain on fresh concrete can damage the surface finish. If unexpected rain threatens a project in progress, we use plastic sheeting to protect the surface. Rain during the curing period (after the first day) is generally fine and even helps the curing process in hot weather.

Yes — demolition and removal of existing concrete is included in our driveway and patio replacement quotes. Old concrete is broken up, loaded, and hauled to a recycling facility (concrete is 100% recyclable). Disposal fees are incorporated into the project quote; we don't charge surprise fees for debris removal after the project is complete.

Concrete pricing depends on factors that can only be assessed in person: soil conditions, drainage patterns, access for equipment, existing concrete condition (if demolition is required), and site-specific details that affect material and labor requirements. A phone price is a guess. We've watched homeowners get burned by low phone quotes that doubled at the job site. Our site visit is free and produces an accurate, itemized written quote — which protects you.

Completely free — no obligation, no pressure, no "this price is only good today" tactics. We come out, assess your site, discuss your project, answer your questions, and send you a written quote. If you use another contractor, no hard feelings. We've been in business since 2006 on the strength of referrals, and a good experience during the estimate — even if we don't win the job — builds the reputation that generates those referrals.

The main factors are: square footage, existing concrete removal (if applicable), base depth required based on soil conditions, mix specifications, finish type (broom vs. decorative), control joint layout, and site access. Decorative options like stamping or exposed aggregate add to material and labor costs. Retaining walls or step features adjacent to the driveway are quoted as separate line items.

Yes — we require a deposit at contract signing, typically 30–40% of the total project cost. The balance is due upon project completion and your walkthrough approval. We don't ask for full payment before work begins. Project contracts clearly specify payment terms, schedule, and scope — no verbal agreements.

We partner with third-party financing providers for qualified residential projects. Financing options include fixed-rate installment plans with terms from 12 to 60 months. Ask about financing availability during your estimate — we can walk you through the application process, which takes about 5 minutes and doesn't require a contractor visit to apply.

For plain concrete driveways and patios in Middle Tennessee's climate, resealing every 3–5 years is a reasonable maintenance interval. Decorative stamped concrete should be resealed every 2–3 years because the sealer is what preserves the color intensity and surface protection. We apply an initial sealer on all projects at the end of the curing period — the first re-application is your responsibility as the homeowner.

For routine cleaning, a garden hose and a stiff broom handle most organic material. Pressure washing is effective for deeper cleaning — use a fan tip nozzle (never a zero-degree tip on concrete) at moderate pressure. For oil stains, a degreaser applied before pressure washing works best. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners with high acid content on decorative surfaces, as they can degrade the sealer. For stamped concrete, use only cleaners rated safe for sealed decorative concrete.

Avoid rock salt (sodium chloride) on concrete — it accelerates freeze-thaw surface damage and can cause spalling over time. Calcium chloride is less damaging but still not ideal on decorative surfaces. Sand is the safest traction aid for concrete. If you use chemical deicers, choose a product specifically labeled safe for concrete and sealed surfaces, and rinse the surface when temperatures allow. Never use deicers on concrete that's less than 1 year old.

Well-installed concrete with proper base preparation lasts 25–50+ years. The variation comes down to installation quality, maintenance, and site conditions. Concrete that was poured on inadequate base, used too-thin slab thickness, or skipped control joints will fail significantly earlier. The most expensive concrete repair is the replacement of concrete that was installed poorly to begin with — which is exactly what proper installation prevents.

It depends on the crack. Hairline cracks in the surface (less than 1/8" wide, not displaced) are often normal and can be sealed to prevent water infiltration. Structural cracks — wide, displaced on either side, or running through the full depth — indicate base failure and typically require slab replacement in the affected area. Cracks at control joints are expected and don't indicate failure. We assess every crack on its own characteristics during our repair estimates.

The primary causes of concrete cracking are: inadequate base support causing slab settlement, insufficient concrete thickness for the load, missing or poorly placed control joints, shrinkage during curing without proper moisture management, and freeze-thaw cycles in thin or poorly sealed concrete. We address all of these during installation: proper base, minimum slab thickness, strategic control joint placement, and moisture management during curing. Control joints allow concrete to "crack" in a controlled, hidden location rather than randomly across the visible surface.

Stamped concrete uses the same base concrete as plain flatwork, but before it fully sets, texture stamps are pressed into the surface to create patterns — cobblestone, slate, flagstone, wood plank, and dozens of other options. Color hardener and release agents are worked into the surface to add depth and tone variation. The result looks like natural stone or brick but performs like concrete. It costs more than plain concrete due to the additional labor and materials, but significantly less than the natural stone or brick it resembles.

Epoxy coating is not paint. Garage floor paint sits on top of the concrete and typically peels within a few years as moisture from below pushes through the slab. Professional epoxy systems chemically bond to the concrete surface, and multi-coat systems (base coat + broadcast flake + polyaspartic top coat) create a surface that's essentially impervious to oil, chemicals, and abrasion. A properly installed epoxy system lasts 10–20 years with minimal maintenance. The key requirement is proper substrate preparation — particularly moisture testing and diamond grinding, which most DIY applications skip.

We handle crack injection and sealing, slab lifting (mudjacking / polyurethane foam injection), spall and surface restoration, joint reseal, full section replacement in areas where damage is too extensive for surface repair, and drainage correction in areas where improper slope is causing ongoing water issues. We assess every repair situation individually — some problems have a repair solution that's genuinely worth doing, and some have already failed beyond the point where repair is cost-effective. We'll always tell you honestly which category your situation falls into.

Our retaining wall installations include: site assessment and engineering evaluation, footing excavation and pour, drainage aggregate and perforated pipe installation behind the wall, rebar placement and form setting, concrete pour and finishing, and waterproofing membrane on the soil-facing side. Walls above a certain height (typically 4 feet) require engineering review and permitting, which we coordinate. We don't pour retaining walls without proper drainage — water pressure is the leading cause of retaining wall failure.

Yes, with precautions. Concrete should not be poured when air or ground temperature is below 40�F — cold temperatures dramatically slow hydration and can cause permanent strength loss if concrete freezes before gaining sufficient early strength. When temperatures are marginal (40–50�F), we use heated enclosures, insulating blankets, and accelerating admixtures in the mix. In practice, Middle Tennessee's winters allow concrete pours through most of the cold season with proper preparation. We pause scheduling on days when conditions genuinely don't allow for a quality pour.

Yes — but hot weather requires the same care as cold weather. In high heat (above 90�F), concrete can set too quickly, reducing the working window for finishing and stamping. We address this with chilled mix water, ice in the mix when needed, scheduling pours for early morning, applying curing compounds immediately after finishing, and using wet burlap or plastic sheeting to retain moisture during curing. We won't pour decorative stamped concrete in extreme midday summer heat — the stamping window is too short to maintain quality.